Gone is the wall of local athletics plaques listed here to keep is the stocked salad bar (with sneeze guards). Roca’s, the most current salvation of a extensive-standing Lakewood pizza parlor, opened Thursday for its neighborhood enthusiasts and other returning shoppers.
Earlier this calendar year, Denver restaurateur Alex Seidel (Fruition, Mercantile, Chook, Fudmill) and chef Tim Bender (Comal, Osage Cafe) took around the place that had been occupied for more than 3 many years by Frontroom Pizza. They brought major strategies to update the kitchen and eating area and overhaul the food items menu.
Now Roca’s is formally open up for business enterprise, serving slim-crust, tavern-fashion and thick-crust Sicilian-type pies as nicely as home-designed noodles in typical preparations — strozzapreti alla diavola, spaghetti alla vonghole, for illustration. The setting is cozy and charming, with paper around checkered tablecloths and ample brass and subway tile to come to feel modern.
Go for your beloved comforting pasta dishes, as nicely as for the moderately priced bottles of wine, and keep for dessert, notably thick slices of tiramisu. And go in advance and sidle up to that salad bar, a surprise late-pandemic comeback, and an crucial spared relic from Frontroom. (Seidel’s spouse, Melissa, explained it also reminded her of childhood birthday parties at Pizza Hut.)
And go away it to the Lakewood pizza purists to review Roca’s sourdough starter crusts to Frontroom’s. Seidel is using some of the ideas — scratch cooking, refreshing elements — from his James Beard-awarded cooking and applying them right here. But he’s also creating positive households can eat for around $50, with very little types purchasing rooster tenders or “super cheesy” pizzas.
It’s the chef’s very own neighborhood joint, following all, exactly where his kids and others’ will be coming in immediately after faculty, just after follow, immediately after tournaments. Heck, give it one more 35 many years and there may well even be plaques on the walls once again.
If you go: Roca’s Pizza & Pasta is open from 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday by way of Thursday and 4-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday at 13795 W. Jewell Ave. in Lakewood. For far more details, connect with 303-969-8880 or head to rocaspizzaandpasta.com.
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