December 7, 2022


The Food Universe

Elephant Thai’s street food menu a wonder on every plate | Food & Drink

When Suwanna Meyer opened Elephant Thai, her second Thai restaurant, just 10 minutes’ south of Chaang Thai on North Academy Boulevard, she instructed the Indy she would be providing road foodstuff dishes in addition to what Americans anticipate to see on a Thai menu. Staying that I’ve in no way been to Thailand, I cannot speak to the authenticity of something. But in the small yellow-trimmed making the place she and her workforce do small business, I uncover wonders on our plates.

Starting up with appetizers, the curry puffs are also identified as Thai samosas, and that description suits quite properly. The potatoes, carrots and snow peas yield to the tooth with minimal resistance, perfumed with curry powder that’s clearly Thai instead than Indian. They are wrapped with a fried dough that crunches much more like a wonton than like any samosas we’ve experienced — not a issue. We also try out the crispy pork belly, which comes battered and fried with a coating that appears to be Southern-type and prices pleasurable, but doesn’t impress. That changes when we dip it in the lime-chile dipping sauce, which commences sweet and passes by fruity, sour, spicy and savory notes, thrilling us with how it travels and finishes just about every bite cleanse.

Offered the part measurement for the entrées we get, even though, we could’ve skipped the apps and waddled out with leftovers, no issue. Chaang Thai’s pink curry has generally been a handle, but with roasted duck, it is extraordinary. The roasty, fatty skin-on duck slices engage in superbly with the curry spices, and pineapple and bell pepper chunks preserve points from obtaining way too rich. At a incredibly spicy medium warmth, it’s pretty, even though all those not fond of capsaicin kick may want to go moderate. Also in the realm of scrumptious curry with a very little change, the rice noodle with fish curry sauce arrives with fish balls and floor fish mixed into the sauce, both equally of which add a brininess that reminds us of the sea (in a good way) and emphasizes the Thai basil. 

Crabmeat fried rice delivers us a couple surprises past a relatively regular fried rice dish with the occasional chunk of sweet crab. The wok hei — practically the breath or power of the wok — sings with these flavors, imbuing the dish with a significant smokiness that adds a compelling twist to its sweet and umami flavors. Likewise, just one may well have pedestrian expectations for khao person gai, or Hainanese chicken and rice, based on the description. But many thanks to Anthony Bourdain, we’re primed for the marvel of this rather healthier dish of steamed, skin-on hen thigh, ginger-infused rice, ginger-soy sauce with lemongrass and a aspect of “clear soup” 1 may also call consommé. The meat preferences so richly and strongly of rooster in the greatest way, and the earthy, ginger-spicy sauce would make each and every chunk a “wow” minute, even devoid of that intensely flavorful still sensitive soup.

Sukiyaki dry version, a stir-fry also available as a soup served with a preference of protein, charges reliable and approachable, less memorable than the rest of the dishes we sample. But when Meyer’s other avenue foodstuff choices you should us like our to start with Thai curry all over yet again, which is a challenging act to follow, and we simply cannot say we have experienced a weak entrée from Elephant Thai.